FEATURE Gorilla Warfare An expose on hunting for gorillas in Rwanda. by ASHTON LAWRENCE   You’ll be pretty hard-pressed to find people who would consider Rwanda prime globetrotting territory- from the affluent to the thrill-seekers and everything in between, the connection with the genocide usually proves too strong. Having been fortunate enough to jaunt between Kigali and Ruhengeri and back again, I learned (horrible relationships not withstanding) that the few good qualities I was introduced to did purge the negative ones. The erratic, rolling hills dissolving in shades of Kelly green provided one of the most captivating landscapes to bear witness to a vanishing species.             When humanity turned its back and heaven closed its gates, Rwanda’s mountain gorillas retreated back into the mist. With numbers hovering around 700, conservation programs are making a killing on the tourists desperate to escape the cookie-cutter getaways and rough it in the untamed jungle. Just prior to the trek, you’ll be inconspicuously sized up by the gun-toting rangers in an attempt to match the most physically fit with the furthest troops; the majority of treks lasting anywhere from two hours to eight hours one-way.             Hundreds of non-refundable dollars later and with zero guarantee you’ll actually stumble upon a gorilla, I can assure you no matter how loaded or determined you are, only the strongest survive the trek. Literally. Mefloquin and machetes are a must. As Africa’s guerilla warfare plays bridesmaid to Iraq’s bride, hopefully the quiet house in the noisy neighborhood will finally get the respect it deserves.